Route In

For years we had wanted to visit the Tuweep section of the north rim of the Grand Canyon, especially the Toroweap Overlook. Every time we drove from Tucson north into southern Utah we would drive by the small brown highway signs pointing in that direction. The same occurred once we moved north to Sandy and made our return visits into Arizona.

In most years we avoid camping over the long Memorial Day weekend because the campgrounds are generally crowded by winter weary citizens out for their first breath of the outdoors for the approaching warm season. This year we decided to venture out to get in some hiking while doing some "yuppie camping." We made reservations and stayed in a motel in St. George. With the swarms of children enjoying the pool until late into the night, and the often rude parents shouting from room to room long after dark, that misadventure might be the subject of another journal entry.

In any case, we decided that this was the year to make our way to Toroweap and see the great 3,000 foot wall ourselves. On Saturday morning we drove from St. George up to Hurricane (pronounced "her-uh-cun" locally) and then south-east toward the polygamist community of Colorado City, just across the border in Arizona. It's a bit tricky finding the correct dirt road, but just south of town, near Mile Post 3,  we found one that got us there. There seems to be only one graded dirt road that goes south from that town, so once you find yourself heading in that direction you can be pretty sure you're on the right track. This is called the Clayhole Route (BLM Road #5).

The road is graded dirt for most of the 60 miles and is very dusty except when it is wet, when it becomes impassible. There is some washboarding as you get closer to your destination, but that condition occurs only for a short distance.

Apparently there is another route directly from St. George called the Main Street Route (BLM Roads #1069 and #5). This route is 90 miles long and is said to be the most scenic. If we would have known about that route we might have taken it instead. The Clayhole Route passes through some fairly flat country and becomes monotonous after a few miles. At least until you get near the Mt. Trumbull Wilderness area farther south.

There is a third route, known as the Sunshine Route (BLM Road #109), that leaves Highway 389 about seven miles west of Fredonia, Arizona. That route is 61 miles long and is said to be the most reliable. We took that route out of the area and I'll describe it a bit later in this review.

These routes will also give you access to the newly formed Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument. This monument gathers together sever designated wilderness areas in the Arizona Strip area north of the Grand Canyon for the sake of protecting the broader ecosystem. From my understanding, this joint venture between the Park Service and the BLM stretches from the Grand Canyon north to almost the Arizona-Utah border.

Along the Clayhole Route we spotted a small burrowing owl sitting on the branch of a bush near a small mound of dirt reminiscent of a prairie dog burrow. The little owls often share quarters with the small  "dogs," and there are prairie dogs farther north in Utah, so perhaps we were witness to evidence of that symbiotic relationship.

We also spotted a roadrunner dashing across the road at about 14 miles north of the canyon. We hadn't seen one of those since we'd moved away from Tucson over seven years ago. That was a fun sighting. We also spotted a small, single, quail bobbing along at one point. Earlier I saw a golden eagle lazing in the morning's updrafts just off the road.

The Ranger Station is 6.3 miles north of the rim, near the Toroweap Landing Strip that is visible to the west of the road, down along the floor of a shallow valley. The station includes several rustic stone buildings, including the historic structure in which the ranger lives. There is a kiosk with information about the area, some free reading material, and if you're lucky, the ranger will be around and will stop to visit. He is an interesting character and can fill you in on local road conditions, the camping situation, and whatever else you want to know about the area.

There is no water available for general consumption, but we did notice a container of water set aside for emergency purposes. So whether you are coming for the day, or to camp, take along plenty of water.

From the Ranger Station to the Toroweap Overlook the road gets much more rough and in some areas I would not want to drive a typical city car. We have a high clearance vehicle and found ourselves bouncing around quite a bit. (Although, while we were there we did see several passenger cars in the area.) The scratches and gouges on the sandstone outcrops are evidence of some vehicles bottoming out on this road.

Campground

There is no charge for the campground or for day-use, but a permit and fee are required for backcountry camping.

In the main campground there are eleven primitive, first-come, first-served sites that are near the rim, including one group site. You can reserve the group site by calling 520-638-7870. The ranger told us that the sites fill up during the spring and fall months, especially on weekends. There are picnic tables, fire grates (bring your own wood) and two very clean, environmentally friendly, composting toilets. There is no electricity or water, and there is no gasoline available anywhere around, so either bring extra, or tank up before you head this way. There is also no garbage collection, so carry out everything that you bring in to the site.

The camp sites are mostly exposed, but some are huddled up against a wall of sandstone and are surrounded by a few tall pinyons and junipers, so there is some sparse shade. The surface is mostly exposed sandstone, so in the summer months there is probably a considerable amount of radiant heat, and the sandstone may stay warm well into the night.

The second campground is right near the Toroweap Overlook. There are only two sites there, and a pit toilet. These are also on a first come, first served basis, and, according to the ranger, tend to be the primary destination of most overnight visitors. Another thing to remember is that everyone who drives this far wants to see the overlook. They will be passing through your camp all day long and there will only be solitude once the sun goes down.

From our short time in the area we preferred the larger campground. The sites were well spaced apart and the views were just as spectacular, and the time there might actually be more private.

Views

And speaking of views, the sights from the Toroweap Overlook are quite spectacular, and really different from those seen from the south rim near Grand Canyon Village. You have to make your way along some tumbled sandstone and over a ledge to gain access to the best views, but the sheer red cliff face and the grays and browns of the rest of the canyon in the background, coupled with the almost emerald green of the ribbon of Colorado River cutting its way through the scene, can be breathtaking. If you have vertigo be very careful near the edge. Like they say, it's not the fall that will kill you. It's that sudden stop at the end.

To the west, along the rim, you can climb through more tumbled sandstone to gain a view of the Lava Falls area. There, again, are several spectacular and interesting views of this geologic phenomena.

Route Out

After climbing around we took a short hike and then headed back toward the highway via the Sunshine Route. The ranger had thought this route might be in worse condition due to some logging trucks in the area, but, other than being more dusty in places, we thought that it was a better route than the Clayhole road. Just be on the lookout for oncoming traffic. Sometimes, to avoid the washboard effect, one tends to drive in the middle of the road. But around curves this can be dangerous and we encountered many more vehicles on this route than we did coming in on the Clayhole.