Route In

6:36 a.m.
We finished breakfast and are headed north on Highway 66. It will be about 60 miles to the Junction with 518.

7:30 a.m.
The marked junction for 518 and US 66, that goes to Hualapai Hilltop, is between road markers 110 and 111. It is about 60 miles from the junction to the Hilltop, through the Havasupai Reservation.

7:57 a.m.
We spotted a large elk buck along the east side of the road. He still had velvet on his antlers.

7:59 a.m.
Not too far after the elk we saw a female turkey running off the side of the road. One of the mottled looking birds.

Hualapai Hilltop

8:37 a.m.
At the Hilltop we found the parking area to be incredibly crowded and busy. We couldn’t locate a parking spot in the main part of the trailhead, so we had to drive back along the road about a quarter of a mile. There was one spot there that we were able to slip into. The air is cool, in the upper 50s.

We slipped on our socks and boots and packs and closed up the Tacoma and walked to the trailhead. There we used the Porti-Potties, tightened our boots, and secured our packs. There are lots of cars and lots of people getting ready to go down. The helicopter pad is just over the edge, along the side of the parking area. There is also a building where those leaving packs for the mules and helicopter drop off their gear and pay up. There are a lot of packs stacked up there.

Just before we left I took photos of a group from Phoenix.

Switchbacks Down

9:10 a.m.
We started down. It’s clouding up a bit. That’s great, as long as is doesn’t rain hard. Sprinkles are nice. The trail starts off with a series of tight switchbacks and the surface along there is pretty solid.

About .75 miles down the trail runs into a rocky area near an old stone building or corral. The walking is a bit more difficult along there. Also, there are several parallel trails, so it is hard to know which route to take. It really doesn’t matter, because they all converge on the same spot just above the wash.

In this lower part we came upon our first groups of mules and horses, carrying loads up from the campground. The mules are strung together or loose, and seem to know their way. There is usually at least one Native wrangler pushing them along.

Right at the place where the trail first hits the wash, at about the one mile marker, one mule lost its load and the wrangler had to secure it all again. There was quite a pile up of hikers going down and coming back up. We worked our way around the congestion and continued on down.

Havasupai Canyon

Along in there, on the left side, as you are going down the trail, there is an old watering trough and above it, what looks like a stone monument with a spigot coming out. There didn’t seem to be water any longer, but there may have been. We didn’t try it to see.

From here on down to the junction with Havasu Canyon we hiked mostly in the wash bottom. The surface is gravel, with some sand here and there and quite a few large rocks. But the walking is pretty fast. The scenery all along is wonderful, with views of the surrounding canyons, reminiscent of the main part of the Grand Canyon.

Watch for slender metal mile markers along the right side of the trail. We saw them all except the four mile marker.

Some place in here I began to realize that I had blisters on the balls of my feet. Not what I wanted, for sure. But they didn’t burn, so I just kept plodding along. I suppose it was the 1,100 elevation loss in that first mile, coupled with a 45+ pound pack, and feet that have not yet been trail seasoned. Ah well ... my fear from this point on was the return climb out on Sunday.

Havasu Canyon

At about 6.5 miles the wash enters Havasu Canyon. The junction is signed to point the way to Supai Village. And, the canyon becomes filled with trees and other vegetation and you can hear the water running in Havasu Creek.

From here the trail winds along under the trees and along irrigation ditches. Eventually the trail crosses a small bridge and then climbs a hill above the village. Watch for the two rock towers above the village, known as the Wigleeva.

Supai Village

From there you begin walking through Supai Village. There are houses, a rodeo ground, churches, a couple of small stores, a cafe, post office, clinic, and a Tourist Registration Office. All hikers must stop to register. If you hadn’t made earlier reservations you might be out of luck. There are a lot of people headed down to the campground.

We got our permits and attached them to our packs and used the modern restroom inside. Outside of the building there is a fresh water spigot that can be used to fill water bottles.

From there we continued on through the village, past the school, and more homes. The village is kind of strange, in that everyone seems to walk or use horses to get around. The roads are sand and about as wide as a regular road. We did see one modern backhoe tractor, and a few ATVs, but there are no cars. It seemed that everyone (but mostly the kids) wore headphones and carried around an iPod of some sort. The kids dressed in baggy jeans and dark t-shirts and looked just like the hip-hop kids we see around Salt Lake City. We also spotted several places where there was graffiti. If I remember correctly, there are about 650 people living in the village.

From the village to the campground is about two miles. We passed along on the sandy road next to a dry irrigation ditch. There are lots of trees so we didn’t have to walk in the sun much.

Navajo Falls

Eventually the trail heads down to Navajo Falls (off to the left) and then levels for a bit until it gets to the area above Havasu Falls. I stepped on a rock buried in the powder of the trail and took a nose dive. I caught myself, but not after skinning both knees and getting covered in dust.

Havasu Falls

The trail then goes down quite a ways. It’s along in here where you can first see Havasu Falls, and it’s along in here where Anne stepped on the edge of a buried drainage pipe and slipped and landed on her butt. Our two falls are notable because we seldom if ever stumble and fall along any trail. Needless to say, we were both a bit embarrassed.

Havasu Campground

From there we passed a corral and then were in the campground. Near the entrance there were seven Porti-Potties that had obviously been helicoptered in. This is also the area where camper equipment is dropped off and picked up for those who use that service.

The campground sits on both sides of the stream under a tall canopy of cottonwood trees. It is quite shady down in there. Each camp site was to have a picnic table, so we kept walking along the trail looking for an open site. Everything was taken. We eventually made it to the two Porti-Potties at the Moonie Falls end of the campground. We met people coming back along the trail and they told us that all sites seemed to be filled. I was getting tired and sore and pissed by this time, just wanting to get that damn 45 pound pack off of my back.

One group told us that if we couldn’t find anything that we could slip into their spot right at the beginning of the campground. We thanked them and headed back toward Havasu Falls hoping that we’d missed something.

Along the way we met two women whom we had talked with along the trail. They were with a larger group and told us that they had found a spot on the far side of the stream, back up in the trees above the flood plane. They said it was open and if we got there first it would be ours. So we crossed the stream on a narrow wooden plank and did, indeed, find the spot open.

There was a tent near the site, but that belonged to a couple who were staying with a group down below, right along the stream. So we set up the tent under the shade of a mesquite tree and took possession of the table.

There had been clouds most of the day, and some slight sprinkles, which felt nice. We also heard some thunder off in the distance. The fellow at the registration office told us that there was a chance for a flash flood and that we should be prepared to get to high ground. Where we were camped was high ground, so we felt a bit safer.

After we had the tent set up we walked back to use the restrooms and fill up our drinking bottles. Near the beginning of the campground there are signs that point to a spring. There is a large metal pipe coming out of the ground with water pouring from it. There is also a small building. On the north side of the building there is a spigot that provides filtered, chlorinated water. The chlorine is pretty strong and makes the water smell like a swimming pool. It was about a .25 mile trip from our campsite to the water and restrooms.

Back at camp we finished setting up, then took a nice nap in the cool breeze.

While we were napping a couple of guys came up into our area and used the brush near the back of our site as a toilet. Gross. They didn't even cover it up. Looking around back in there it was obvious that they were not the first. I was also amazed at the amount of trash thrown around in the brush. People are pigs, and we show a lack of respect for the Natives and the land by trashing everything we come into contact with in the wilds.

On our way to get water we noticed that a lot of people were packing up and heading out on the trail, back toward the top. That opened a lot of spots. It’s really a shame that there isn’t a Noon check out time or something so that those spots would have been open for us and the others that arrived when we did. But people moved around and all of the vacated sites were soon filled in.

6:14 p.m.
We just finished dinner. We had Mountain House beef stew. It serves two, providing 20 ounces of food. It has no trans fats. The package weighs 4.30 ounces. You just add two cups of boiling water into the pouch and let it stand. It is very good; tasty. We had a couple of pilot biscuits with it. Then we had Backpacker’s Pantry Tiramisu. It also serves two. It cost $2.35 and the package weighs 3.8 ounces. This was not as good as the stew, but it’s prepared cold, like a pudding, and has a nice, tasty, sweetness. But I’m not a coffee person, and it definitely has a coffee flavor. But we’d make it again.

After I got my boots off I found that I have a large blister on the ball of each of my feet, plus a couple of smaller blisters on the middle toe of my right foot. The two big ones are really bad and I’m concerned about getting around tomorrow and getting out of here on Sunday. I guess we’ll have to see how it goes. I’ve been trying to stretch my toes and bending them back so that the loose skin sort of tightens back over the area where it had been attached. There must only be a small hole in the skin, to let the fluids out, because the loose skin is still in sort of a bubble.

Anne’s washing the dishes. After that we’ll walk back for more water and to use the restrooms. Then we’ll probably turn in for the night.

Sunrise in the Canyon

7:45 a.m.
Between screaming college age guys hooting to hear themselves echo off the cliffs we did get some sleep. I don’t know what the deal was. Alcohol and drugs are prohibited here, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t smuggled in and consumed after dark. Everything quieted down around 9:00 p.m. as the sun set, and I’m sure we drifted off to sleep. But then sometime later these guys below us, along the stream, began hooting and yelling at each other for no apparent reason other than to hear themselves disturbing the whole campground. That went on for about 30 minutes, maybe more.

This morning is pretty nice, but just a bit chilly. Our new fleece jackets are nice and really do the trick.

The sun is starting to hit the cliffs on the west side of the canyon. The birds are singing. We’ve already made our first trip to the restrooms.

My feet hurt because of the blisters, but not horrible. At least they are not burning like times in the past. We’ll cook breakfast and then go visit the waterfalls and see how the day goes.

8:25 a.m.
We’re having a little trouble getting the stove to stay lit this morning. It seems that we’re low on gas, which surprises me. We had filled it up as far as we could before we left home.

This morning we had Mountain House scrambled eggs with bacon. It is precooked and freeze dried and weighs 2.25 ounces net weight. Just add boiling water to the pouch and let it stand. The preparation instructions say to use a cup of boiling water, but we’ve found that the eggs come out more watery that way. So we reduced the water a bit, to about 3/4 of a cup. We ate the eggs with pilot biscuits, salt and pepper, and a bit of Mrs. Dash seasoning. The eggs and bacon were good, but not fantastic. But I still give it four stars.

After breakfast Anne did the dishes, we secured everything in camp from roving squirrels and ravens, then headed off with our day packs to visit the falls. First we headed north, or down canyon, to see Moonie Falls. We stopped at the two Porti-Potties at that end of the campground and had to wait in line. These portable restrooms are beginning to get disgusting and stinky.

Moonie Falls

Shortly after that we were above the falls and had to work our way down through a rocky area to a spot where we could see the entire height of the falls. At 196 feet, this is the tallest of the falls in Havasu Canyon. From there we had to descend down through a man-made tunnel that is pretty steep. That comes out into another open area with even better views of the falls.

From there the trail becomes a series of steps cut into the cliff face, with chains for support. With my blistered feet and feeling out of sorts I declined to go down. It just wasn’t a good day for me to be adventurous. But there were a lot of people down there and it looked like an interesting area.

We climbed back up and looked around above the falls a bit, then headed back through the campground.

Havasu Falls

On the south end of the campground we took the side trail to Havasu Falls. There were already a lot of people gathering there. Some swimming in the cold water, some sunbathing, others sitting in the shade watching the water pour over the cliffs above. I think Havasu, at 100 feet, is the more interesting of the falls in that the water seems to spread out near the top. Then, as it plunges, it hits rock outcrops to spray and cascade outward. Where Moonie is just a tall, straight drop, Havasu has a broader, interrupted fall. And the pool at the bottom is quite blue creating an amazing contrast with the surrounding green foliage and the reds, buffs, and oranges of the surrounding cliffs. The water contains a lot of travertine, which give it the color, and which precipitates on the surrounding rocks and anything else that sits in the water, like logs.

Anne pulled off her boots and waded around in the water for a short while. It was pretty cold, so she didn’t stay in long. In spite of the warnings not to climb the rocks or dive into the pools, there were idiot teens who were doing just that. It looks fun, but could be dangerous, depending on the depth of the pool.

Back to Supai Village

After spending some time there, we continued on up the trail toward Navajo Falls. Because of the time we decided to skip it for now and climbed on up to the village, where we were going to have lunch at the cafe. We figured we’d visit Navajo Falls on the way back.

12:37 p.m.
We spent $24.00 for food at the cafe, and $84.00 for camping and entrance fees. At the small cafe in Supai Village I had a double cheeseburger and Anne had a burger. We shared nachos. The burgers were a bit dry for my tastes, but Anne likes her’s well done. We also each had a large lemonade. I paid $6.50 for a cheeseburger. Anne’s hamburger cost $4.50. Nachos weren’t too bad.

The place wasn’t too crowded, but it was busy. There is an inside set of tables, and an outdoor covered patio. Backpacks are not allowed within the building. They also have restrooms that are open to the public.

From the village we walked back toward camp. So far my blisters hadn’t bothered me much, but I could feel my feet getting hot. I had put on two pairs of socks, and that seems to work as good as could be expected.

Navajo Falls

At Navajo Falls there is a side trail that works its way along a cliff face, then down a set of stairs and across a wooden bridge to the falls. But I just didn’t have enough strength and stamina to go down there. I know Anne was disappointed, but I’m just not feeling well today.

From there we walked back to camp to relax.

Evening in Havasu Canyon

6:06 p.m.
Tonight Anne’s preparing Backpacker’s Pantry Santa Fe Chicken. The package weighs 7.5 ounces, and it serves two. It is a spicy Mexican meal.

All day long I’ve felt a bit shaky.

Because the double socks worked so well we’ve abandoned any thought about riding the helicopter out tomorrow. We’re going to hike out. So we plan on getting up at 5:00 a.m. to pack up and get out as early as we can. We won’t cook breakfast; just eat some jerky and an energy bar.

Today was hot, and unfortunately there wasn’t much shade at our campsite. And not much of a breeze. So our afternoon nap wasn’t as relaxing as the day before.

We saw a cardinal down near the fresh water spigot, and this evening there are lots of bull frogs croaking. It’s really not a very pleasant sound. There are lots of people around. It’s like the campground at a music festival.

6:28 p.m.
The Fiesta Chicken is very good, but we need to make sure we stir it well the next time we make it. Anne smushed it within its bag instead of stirring, so there were some parts that didn’t get as rehydrated as needed. We could also leave it in the bag a bit longer to moisten it more. I’d give it four stars, thumbs up, and we’d eat it again.

We had Richmoore’s Apple Brown Betty with a crumbled topping. The package weighs 3.3/4 ounces. Again, just add hot water and let stand. It tastes just like apple crisp.

The Richmoore’s Pilot biscuits that we’ve been eating with everything come in a pack of 16, which weighs 7.5 ounces. These are unsalted soda cracker or unleavened bread type discs that seem to last forever. We’ve had some in the pantry at home for several years and when we tried them they only tasted slightly stale, but were still edible. They work well with eggs and bacon or stew or Mexican because they don’t have much flavor of their own. But they do add some crunch and substance to a rehydradted meal.

6:39 p.m.
The Apple Brown Betty was very good. Kind of like an apple crisp. Anne is washing dishes, then we’re going to pack up as much as we can so that we can get out as early as we can in the morning.

7:03 p.m.
We just spotted a little yellow bird, sort of like a finch. It is solid yellow, with a little gray on the wings. Very inquisitive, fluttering around the trees above our tent.

8:08 p.m.
There are lots of bats flying around the camp, at and below eye level. This is the closest we’ve ever had them come to us. A few times I could have reached out and touched one, if it were standing still.

Packing Up and Heading Out

6:23 a.m.
The tent is packed up, we’re packed up, and on our way to the top.

There was a lot of activity within the campground this morning as many prepared to head up. There were a lot of duffel bags sitting at the corral, waiting to be taken out by mule. We made the climb up past Havasu Falls and Navajo Falls without much difficulty, then walked on through the Village. We stopped at the registration office to use the restrooms, and then continued on through the village until we came to the junction with Havasupai Canyon. From there we worked our way up the wash. It seems that there are more hills to climb going out than I remembered going down on the way in. I guess everything is relative.

My feet seemed to be okay in the double socks, but I just didn’t seem to have much energy. And for most of the hike we were in shade, so that made it nice.

We got passed by lots of mules on the way out. And many of those that used the mules to carry their stuff passed us on the way as well. They were carrying almost nothing compared to what we hefted.

Switchbacks Out

About the time we got to the one mile marker I began to feel really drained. My legs didn’t hurt, I didn’t have a hard time breathing, but I just didn’t have any energy in my body. We had even stopped at one point in the shade to eat another energy bar. That helped for a while, but I really began to struggle as we climbed up toward the switchback. There is a 1,100 foot elevation gain in that last 1.25 miles. Nothing we hadn’t done before, but I just couldn’t get myself moving. Anne did just fine, and was beginning to get frustrated, so I sent her on ahead. I knew I’d make it, but I had to go at my own pace.

Of course as I climbed we came into full sunlight and the air warmed and so I got to the point where I was climbing from one shady resting point to the next shady resting point. But we made it. Anne got out about twenty minutes before I did.

Hualapai Hilltop

12:41 p.m.
We’re back in the Tacoma. It was about 11:20 when Anne came out and (she says) 11:40 when I came out. The air is warm, but not too bad. There is a slight breeze. I struggled some coming out, but not because of my feet. I just didn’t have energy and power in my legs. But I made it. There were wonderful popsicles and fry bread and other stuff at the trailhead. The Natives are making a few extra bucks selling refreshments from the backs of their vehicles. I can’t blame them. The popsicles sold for $2.00 each, and seemed like a bargain. I bought two, and Anne had one. The parking area was like a circus. The temp is 80 degrees. Anne’s driving and we’re heading back to Kingman.

We saw two small horses and their puppy horse (colt) out for a Sunday walk, right down the middle of the paved road. It almost looked like they were making a break for it, trying to get away from more work on a pack train.

We stayed, again, in Kingman, at a Motel 6. Just someplace to shower and rest and refuel ourselves for the long drive home tomorrow.

Postscript

We drove home on Monday, and throughout the day I continued to feel out of sorts. We both went back to work on Tuesday, but I wasn't feeling well, so I worked from home (one of the benefits of telecommuting to the employee and employer). But as the day progressed I felt worse, with diarrhea and a general sense of fatigue. I felt really tired.

I took Tuesday afternoon off as sick time, as well as the rest of the week. Wednesday evening found me in the emergency room at our local hospital. After an IV and blood tests they believed that I had contracted giardia. I didn't believe that I exhibited the main symptoms, and the gestation period was too short. Never the less, they treated me with antibiotics and a couple of potassium pills. That did seem to help, and I improved as the weekend arrived.

But my lab results showed that I had not been infected with any intestinal parasites. So ... that was good news, knowing that our filtering and water gathering techniques were sound, yet that left me puzzled as to what went wrong. A later visit to my personal physician still has not answered that question.

But, I mention all of this because I do feel better in the sense that I have something of an excuse for feeling fatigued and without energy during this backpacking trip and hike out. It wasn't just that I'd wimpped out. It's an ego thing ... isn't it?