We have visited Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park on two occasions, once when it was still a Monument, back in 1995, and once in July of 2006. On the first trip we met friends from Denver, and spent most of our time visiting and doing just a bit of sightseeing. We did get in one short hike on that trip, and since then we have wanted to get back when we could. This year we had that opportunity, and were able to camp and hike and visit just about all of the view points, on both the south and north rims of the canyon. It's not a huge park, but well worth at least one day's time to explore and view its amazing vertical landscape.

We drove to the Park from Sandy, Utah. The trip over, with stops, took us just short of six hours. But we seldom notice the time when we drive through such amazing country.

Montrose, Colorado

11:55 a.m.
We arrived in Montrose, near the south entrance to the Park, and bought gas for $3.15 per gallon. The temperature was somewhere in the upper 80s, and dark storm clouds loomed on the horizon.

Montrose is about 15 miles south and west of the Park entrance, in a broad valley. The road to the Park is well marked and eventually climbs up onto the plateau.

South Rim Campground

12:34 p.m.
We entered the Park using our annual pass and noted that the temperature had dropped down to 79 degrees. The entrance to the three loops of the campground is near the entrance, and, again, is well marked. We had reservations for site B-2, in B Loop (where there are electrical hookups) and found our site easily. The GPS coordinates for our site are 38 32.649N; 107 41.359W; at an elevation of 8,405 feet.

1:04 p.m.
We got our Coleman popup trailer set up quickly because thunderheads were beginning to bubble up around the horizon, gradually closing in. We had little doubt that we would get rain at some point in the afternoon or evening.

We had a good site, even though it was near the entrance to the loop. The water faucet was just across the road and down a few feet. The restrooms are up the loop just a bit, but not too far. There is also a gray water disposal station near the restrooms, as well as an informational kiosk.

There weren't many other campers in the loop, but it looked as though a few other sites were reserved for that night and the coming weekend. The campground sits at about 8,300 feet in elevation in a grove of pinyon and juniper, with the typical associated vegetation.

Site B-2 is a pull-through site with the trailer pulled parallel to the road, but far enough off of the pavement so that we have a few feet to move around and place our gray water bucket, etc., and not have others walking or driving right next to our trailer. Because of the heat and intense sun, we set up the awning on the trailer and the free standing canopy that we sometimes bring along. But there didn't seem to be many flying insects, so we didn't set up the bug netting on the canopy.

The site has a small modern picnic table and a slightly raised and well defined tent pad (that’s where we placed the canopy and our shower tent). We set up the shower on the far side of the canopy, where it is not as intrusive and a bit more private. The whole campsite is surrounded by fairly tall pinyons, giving some good shade in the late afternoon and into the evening. The underbrush also acts as a good barrier between the campsites, so we had a good deal of privacy.

Visitor Center and Gunnison Point Overlook

6:11p.m.
After we got set up and rested, we drove the short distance to the Visitor Center (GPS coordinates 38 33.300N; 107 41.209W; at an elevation of 8,191 feet). It's a nice, modern, but rustic structure on the edge of the canyon, with drinking water, pay telephones, restrooms, and a book store. We looked around, bought several books, talked with the ranger about trails and bears, then walked to the nearby Gunnison Point Overlook. There are a series of steps that lead to several overlooks right at the edge. It's an amazing view, even with black clouds draping the horizon. There were a few people around, but not many.

Evening Meal

It began raining at about 3:30 p.m., but not hard. When dinner time rolled around we tried to start coals so that we could grill a couple of pork steaks. But our self-starting coals must have lost some of their potency, and we had a difficult time getting them ignited. Finally we gave up and Anne frying them up in a skillet. Not quite the same, but still tasty.

In the evening we sat in the trailer and played dominoes and listened to the radio as the rain pattered the top of the trailer.

7:10 a.m.
I woke up about 6:00 a.m., when the temperature was about 58 degrees. Right now it is 61 degrees in the trailer. It is partly cloudy, but mostly sunny, with a little breeze. It was supposed to warm up quite a bit as the day progressed. We did have some nice easy rain through most of the night.

Rim Rock Trail

7:48 a.m.
We took a hike along the Rim Rock Trail from near the entrance to Loop C in the campground to the Visitor Center. The trail is a marked nature trail that passes through some scrub oak along the south rim. A trail guide is available at each trailhead. At one point it passes below Tomichi Point, then continues on to the Visitor Center. This is an easy trail.

Oak Flat Loop Trail

8:19 a.m.
From the Visitor Center we walked out to an overlook above the Oak Flat Trail, then we took the Oak Flat Trail, which is really a loop. The trail passes downward into some tall trees and high scrub oak vegetation. Then, where the trail meets the Oak Flat route to the bottom to the canyon (permits required) the trail begins to climb back up slope into more tall trees and along a ragged cliff face. This trail has some steep descents over rough or loose rock, and the climb back out can be strenuous at places. We would rate this two mile loop as moderate.

Upland Trail

9:08 a.m.
At GPS coordinates 38 33.260N; 107 41.395W; at an elevation of 8,145 feet we came to the junction of the Oak Flat Trail and the Upland Trail. This trail heads over the top of the plateau, crosses the paved road at two places, and generally passed through a pinyon/juniper forest and other short vegetation. The trail is rocky in places, but generally flat and easy.

9:29 a.m.
At GPS coordinates 38 32.740N; 107 41.293W; at an elevation of 8,344 feet, we came back to a junction with the Rim Rock Trail. From this point we still had about a quarter of a mile to go to get back to our campsite.

We would rate this entire 4.5 mile loop as easy to moderate overall, because most of it is flat, except for a few places along the Oak Flat Loop, which are steep. Also, we are over 8000 feet along most of the hike.

High Point and Warner Point Trail

10:21 a.m.
After a short rest at the campsite we drove on to High Point, at the western end of the paved road, to hike the Warner Point Trail. The temperature was 74 degrees.

11:26 a.m.
The Warner Point Trail is about 1.5 miles round trip. The sign at the trailhead says 1,373 yards. We would rate the trail as easy to moderate. More to the moderate side, because of the elevation gain and loss. The trail is easy to follow and is in good condition. There are also ten markers indicating points of interest. A trail guide is available near the trailhead. The views are mostly to the south side of the canyon, out over the valley toward Montrose. But the Point itself overlooks the western end of the Canyon.

Near the trailhead (at GPS coordinates 38 33.751N; 107 44.479W; at an elevation of 8,281 feet) there is quite a bit of parking, a nice shady picnic area, and restrooms. There is no drinking water.

Sunset View

11:41 a.m.
We stopped at Sunset View, which is at GPS coordinates 38 34.139N; 107 43.971W; at an elevation of 8,109 feet.

Cedar Point

11:56 a.m.
We stopped at Cedar Point, which is at GPS coordinates 38 34.592N; 107 43.215W; at an elevation of 7,924 feet.

12:17 p.m.
We made it back from this short walk. It is 86 degrees outside.

Camp Lunch

12:31 p.m.
We’re back in camp, for some lunch, maybe take a nap, then we’re going to drive down to the East Portal Road, on the border between Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park and Curecanti National Recreation Area.

2:14 p.m.
The thermometer in the trailer says that it is 99 degrees inside. Not conducive to rest and relaxation. There are a few thunderheads building up along the horizons, but they are not a dark as yesterday at this time.

Black Canyon Corner

3:39 p.m.
On the way back from the East Portal we took a short detour back toward Montrose, to the junction with Highway 50, where there is a small store called Black Canyon Corner. We needed to pick up some ice. We spent a few minutes looking around at the typical tourist souvenirs, bought a couple bottles of soda, then headed back up the plateau toward camp.

Evening Camp

There were a few more campers in the campground on this night, but we still had most of the campground to ourselves.

We had a few mule deer pass through, including a doe that walked right into our camp. She seemed interested in our stuff, sniffing everything. We had a half-gallon bucket sitting on the ground that had contained some fresh water. She seemed especially interested in that. So when she moved on to investigate our picnic table, Anne poured more fresh water into the bucket and placed it on one of the benches. The deer seemed to realize what she had done and walked right over to it and commenced to slurp it up, even licking the last of it from the bottom. She stayed around, eating the leaves from the bushes nearby, and eventually settled into a shady spot in the middle of the bushes for a time while we prepared dinner.

Once again, as soon as the sun set, the air cooled off quickly and we had another pleasant evening and a good night's sleep.

6:35 a.m.
Today we’re heading into Curecanti National Recreation Area to do a hike, then we plan on coming back into the Park to pick up the overlooks that we missed yesterday.

More Mule Deer

7:33 a.m.
On our way out of the Park it was 62 degrees, with a partly cloudy, but mostly clear, sky.

Just before we left camp there was a doe with a fawn. The spotted little thing was insistent on feeding from the mother, right in the middle of the loop drive. It was fun to watch how that little one manipulated its mother to get what it wanted. We saw a good number of other deer roaming through the campground as well. They seem to be everywhere in this scrub.

More View Points

2:35 p.m.
Once we got back into the Park we drove to the Painted Wall and the Chasm View viewpoints. As amazing as this chasm is, after a while the views begin to look very similar, just another angle of the same sight. But, as with other canyons, the view changes throughout the day and with varying cloud conditions. Shadows move and provide a different depth perception, even from the same point.

3:50 p.m.
On the way back to camp we stopped at The Pulpit and then decided to call it a day. We skipped the Cross Fissures View, partly because of the large number of people there and partly because it was only a short distance from our last stop.

At this point the air temperature was 85 degrees and it was partly cloudy and breezy.

More Mule Deer

7:08 a.m.
Yesterday after dinner we had another female dear her two fawns come through the camp. Anne had already set out our little water bucket, and when the mother found it she drank it right up. The little ones tried to force their little noses into the bucket, but she kept them away. They get their liquids when they drink the mother's milk. The three were all back again this morning, roaming around the bushes near our camp. We got to watch them pretty close.

Today our plan is to head to the north side of the canyon. That means driving east, again, through Curecanti National Recreation Area, then driving north on Highway 92 to Crawford, where there is a road that heads back south into the Park.

7:28 a.m.
When we left camp it was 60 degrees outside, with almost completely clear skies. But it's a bit hazy.

Road to the North Rim

10:51 a.m.
We’ve entered Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park from the north side. The road is well marked. At this point we still have about six miles to go to get to the view points. The dirt road is graded and in excellent condition.

The Narrows Overlook

10:59 a.m.
At the Narrows Overlook you get a bird's eye view of the canyon below, and the view points across the chasm on the south side. The cliff faces are steeper on the north side, and there are better views of the river and its rapids and cascades down below. The canyon does look a bit different from this side.

Balanced Rock and Big Island Overlooks

11:31 a.m.
We stopped at the Balanced Rock Overlook and the Big Island View. There are only about five other people visiting this portion of the park at this point. We keep seeing the same few faces all along this stretch.

Island Peaks Overlook

11:47 a.m.
The Island Peaks Overlook shows some pretty neat views. We can see people at the view points on the other side. It is 82 degrees out.

Kneeling Camel Overlook

12:00 Noon
Just finished the Kneeling Camel Overlook, where there is a rock formation that looks like a camel sitting and chewing its cud. At this point we are directly across from the Visitor Center on the south rim.

Dead Horse Trailhead

12:01 p.m.
The dirt road eventually comes to a small loop, where there is parking and a restroom. No drinking water. There is a short trail that heads toward the rim, but when we got out there it just sort of petered out. This is also the trailhead for the Dead Horse Trail, which continues on for about three miles to the east to several other viewpoints.

12:15 p.m.
From this end of the road we turned and headed back to the west, toward the campground, and to see if there is a place to have a picnic lunch.

Chasm View Trail

12:26 p.m.
We decided to do the Chasm View Trail before we ate lunch. The trailhead is near the campground and there is a parking area. Drinking water and restrooms are available in the campground. This is a short loop trail of maybe .5 miles. There is a trail guide available at the trailhead, and there are marked points along the route, with several excellent overlooks that give fantastic views of the far side and down to the river.

1:09 p.m.
We finished the Chasm View Trail after a casual walk. Along the way we talked with a young couple with a baby, then with a woman who is an artist. She told us that she'd seen a bald eagle and possibly a golden eagle. But I mentioned to her that the female bald eagles look similar to a golden eagle, and she then thought that it might be a breeding pair. She had a bird book and was able to confirm that what we had seen the day before were indeed falcons and not red tailed hawks.

After the hike we headed into the campground/picnic area to find a shady picnic table for some lunch.

North Rim Campground

1:51 p.m.
There were a few people in the campground, some obviously picnicking, while a few of the camp sites were occupied by tents. There was one Coleman popup trailer as well. We found a nice, shady table at Site 10 and set up for lunch there.

We decided that it would be a good site for tent camping. We could bring the popup trailer, because the road isn’t too bad, but since there are only a few good places for the popup, it might be best to bring the tent. There are 13 camp sites total, with the Ranger Station just down the road a quarter of a mile or so. There is a bin of firewood (I didn't notice a pay method, so it may be free).

We looked around the campground and decided that, for us, for tent camping, Site 10, 1, and 2 would be the best, in that order, but none of the sites would be completely horrible. Each of the sites has a picnic table and a fire grate. The campground is open, but there are many tall pinyons that seem to provide a good deal of shade. The restrooms are modern vault toilets, and there is drinking water nearby. There are also quite a few garbage cans scattered through the campground, which is close to the rim in some places.

After lunch we headed back to the south rim.

5:24 p.m.
We took our time driving back, completing the circle by driving north through Crawford, the west to Delta, then back around to Montrose. We stopped in Montrose and had dinner at Amelia's Mexican Restaurant. When we got back to the trailer the temperature was still 85 degrees.

7:22 a.m.
It is 62 degrees out. We’re all packed up and ready to go. It is cloudy, but does not look threatening. It rained last night about Midnight, but most everything was dry by the time we were ready to pack. Watching the clouds roll in last evening we packed up most of our stuff and stashed it away so it wouldn't get wet.

7:35 a.m.
On our way out of the Park, past the entrance station, we encountered 10 mule deer; seven males with the short antlers from about 8 to 10 inches long; and the rest females. They were strung out across the road, watching us as we watched them. We stopped and waited for them to pass by, then were on our way.