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For the sake of those who may use this information as a guide to their own explorations, I am presenting these sites in the order in which we visited them on this date. You can, of course, skip sites or explore them in a different sequence, depending upon your interests.
7:03 a.m.
As we head out from Vernal, Utah toward Rangely, Colorado the sky is clear and the temperature is 36 degrees. It looks like it will be a good day to track down some rock art.
West of Rangely
Site 1: Buffalo and Calf Site
9:01 a.m.
We drove east from Vernal, Utah toward Rangely, Colorado along Highway 64, south of Dinosaur, Colorado to a point 14.6 miles west of Rangely. There is a dirt road on the southwest side of the highway with a large cottonwood tree visible along its route. We found the entrance to the Buffalo and Calf Site, but had to skip it. There is a locked gate across the road.
If you come to the Bonanza turnoff, the bridge over Dripping Rock Creek, or the overpass above the electric railroad from Deserado Mine then you’ve gone too far.
The directions we were given say that if the gate is open, drive 0.9 miles. As you near the site you will see a canyon on the south side (left) of the road and the road dips to the very edge. Park here. There is a large buffalo and calf, horses, and some anthropomorphic figures in the very end on the right as you look down from the road. With a bit of care this is the place to go down into the canyon and it is maybe 50 feet to the panel.
Site 2: Branch Antlered Elk Site
Next we looked for the Branch Antlered Elk Site, but were not able to locate it based on the description we were given. So we skipped it, knowing that we had a good number of sites to visit on this day. We drove on to the next site.
The directions we were given state that, going east on Highway 64, on the left there is a dirt road (11.8 miles west of Rangely) leading to the bottom of a little canyon. This canyon has a little cave or rock shelter that has a lovely branch antlered elk or deer figure on the rock to the left of the cave. The walk is about 50-75 feet to this one. It marks the base of Mellon Hill. The rock art here may be of Ute origin, but it is said that because of the depths of the deposits in these caves, some of the art may be 1000 years old.
Site 3: Mellen Hill Caves Site
9:06 a.m.
We found the parking area for the Mellen Hill Cave site, on the east side of Highway 64 near milepost 7.3, about 10.8 miles west of Rangely). The GPS coordinates for the parking area are 40 09.448N; 108 58.861W; at an elevation of 5,530 feet. The is a speed limit sign just to the east of the parking area, directed for west bound traffic.
We bundled up, as it was quite windy and cold, then located the walking path just a bit to the northwest of the parking area. There is a brown BLM trial marker near the edge of the gulch, indicating a route to follow down. This approach at this point is quite steep, so I would recommend an alternate route that drops down more gently from the northeast side of the parking area, and then heads northwest to meet with the described trail. From the parking area to the mouth of the main cave is about 0.25 miles.
There are three main caves on the east side of this gulch, with a smaller cave to the southeast, right at the head of the gulch. We found most of the rock art between the two main caves, but closer to the entrance to the smaller of the two. It’s pretty impressive, though sparse compared to some other locations.
The GPS coordinates for the mouth of the largest cave near the head of the gulch are: 40 09.523N; 108 58.919W; at an elevation of 5,732 feet.
The directions we were given say that the overhang at the very top of the canyon, and the big cave right next to it, have the most art, which we found to be true. The directions also said that each of the three caves along the canyon have rock art, either above the cave or on the sides. We spent several minutes examining the surfaces around the large cave near the bottom of the gulch, but found nothing.
Where we did find rock are, there were both pictographs and petroglyphs. The triangular bodied figures with the fancy headgear are Fremont, but the Utes are also represented. There is a good foot trail between the caves. Apparently there are metates ground into the large boulder on the floor of the large lower cave, but we didn’t enter far enough into this cave to locate those relics.
There is also a very small cave at the head of the canyon which faces north, while the other cave entrances and the rock art tend to face west.
The GPS coordinates for the mouth of the lower, largest cave, are: 40 09.552N; 108 58.944W; at an elevation of 5,731 feet.
9:57 a.m.
Once we’d satisfied ourselves with this location, we climbed back up to the parking area and continued east into Rangely.
South of Rangely
Site 4: Camel Ridge Site
To get to the Canyon Pintado National Historic Area:
- From Rangely drive east approximately 0.5 miles on Colorado Highway 64.
- Turn south on Colorado Highway139 (part of the Dinosaur Diamond National Scenic Byway), for 1.8 miles to the “Entering Canyon Pintado National Historic District” sign.
- At milepost 70.5, pull off the road on the right. The panels are about 250 yards away on the north-facing cliffs just above the road. They consist of a camel-like figure, anthropomorphic shapes, and abstracts. Carved tracks are located at waist level on the east-facing cliff.
We followed these directions, but could not find the Camel Ridge Site. We continued on, thinking that perhaps we’d try again on the way back.
Site 5: Lookout Point Site
We did find the Lookout Point Site, at milepost 67.6 (GPS coordinates: 40 01.787N; 108 46.307W; at an elevation of 5,436 feet). There is a dirt road on the west side of Highway139 that leads into an open area. It looks like a gas pipeline was put through the area recently, and right up over the hill near the ruins, which sit atop the cliff face to the north. They look to be a low pile of flat native stones stacked along the edge. However, on this day our primary goal was to view rock art, so we did not climb up the hill to visit the site.
This may have been a watchtower, since there are many of these sites along the valley within viewing distance of each other. They may have served as part of an early warning system. The walk to the site does not look difficult and would no doubt provide an excellent vantage point to view the valley. We are told that if you climb to the ruins you can see several Ute pole support holes that are drilled into the cap rock.
Site 6: East Four Mile Recreation Site
10:54 a.m.
Our next stop was the East Four Mile Recreation Site at milepost 61.3 (GPS coordinates: 39 56.668N; 108 45.497W; at an elevation of 5,693 feet). There is a sign along Highway139 that indicates a short dirt road to a large graveled parking area. This is the most elaborate site within this canyon, with a modern vault toilet, a covered picnic table, and interpretive signs (although the signs have been severely damaged by the sun and weather and are for the most part useless).
There is a loop trail of about 1 mile that starts out toward the north, crosses a dry wash, and allows access to a panel of petroglyphs. The trail then follows below the cliff face, heading east, where small panels offer views of various Fremont and Ute Culture images.
Eventually you’ll come to a fork in the trail, with a sign pointing left to the Hanging Hearth Site and right to the Sun Dagger Site. We went to the left, first, to view the caves and ruins along a cliff face. When you are finished looking, turn around and face the tall cliff face a short distance away behind you. You may see a faint foot path from where you are, leading to the base of the cliff. If you look closely in the dark stain that runs vertically from the top of the cliff you can see the faint figure of a humanoid and a small animal. The images are only a few feet above the ground and are not very large. They are petroglyphs and have faded considerably. If you follow this face back around toward the junction you may be able to see a few more small images.
Back at the junction we continued on toward the Sun Dagger Site and the pioneer ruins (which is basically a pile of weathered logs leaning against the sandstone cliff).
The Sun Dagger Site is believed to be a solar calendar. If stand facing the colorful circles, on a surface above head level, and they look to your left and way up to the top of the cliff, you can see a straight edged overhang. It is probably this straight edge that creates the shadow that crosses through the three circles on the solstice.
There is also another figure on the surface to the right of the calendar figures. It also looks to be in line with where the shadow would fall on that day.
From there the trail loops back down a gully to the parking area. The entire length is easy walking.
Site 7: State Bridge Recreation Site
11:59 a.m.
The State Bridge Recreation Site is at milepost 59.7, on the east side of the road, at GPS coordinates: 39 55.488N; 108 44.626W; at an elevation of 5,742 feet. The site has a sign along Highway139. This is a small site is small, with only a few images high up on a rock outcrop. There is a short path from the small parking area to a wooden lookout below the panel on a small ridge south of the dirt road. These images are probably Fremont and include both deer trails and anthropomorphic figures.
The temperature at that time was 47 degrees, and the sky was mostly clear.
Site 8: Cow Canyon Recreation Site
12:18 p.m.
The Cow Canyon Recreation Site sign is along Highway139 at milepost 57.8. There is a dirt road that leaves the highway on County Route 128 in Philadelphia Draw. At 0.2 miles along the county road there is another sign pointing south to the Cow Canyon Site, which is 0.8 miles farther south. The road is in good shape, but watch for the cows in the area. The actual site is at GPS coordinates: 39 53.299N; 108 43.705W; at an elevation of 5,878 feet. The panels are about 90 yards to your left, facing the road.
There are Ute shields, anthropomorphic figures, what looks to be a flint-lock gun, and a combination of petroglyphs and pictographs which are possibly of Fremont origin.
Site 9: White Birds Recreation Site
12:40 p.m.
The White Bird Recreation Site is off of Highway139 near milepost 56.5. There is a sign along the highway near a little turn out on the west side of the highway at GPS coordinates: 39 52.893N; 108 43.926W; at an elevation of 5,911 feet. There is a fenced area with an interpretive display, and a gate to a short trail that climbs up to a fenced observation area just below the panel. It’s a bit of a climb, but well worth the effort. There are good views of the valley from up observation area. Most of the figures at this site are pictographs.
Site 10: Kokopelli Recreation Site
12:55 p.m.
The Canyon Pintado site is signed as the Kokopelli Recreation Site. There is a large parking area on the east side of Highway 139 near milepost 56 (GPS coordinates: 39 52.433N; 108 43.916W; at an elevation of 5,917 feet). When we visited there were several construction vehicles and supplies in the lot, and it looks like there will be some work being done to this location.
The rock art site is on the west side of the highway, across from the parking area. The large red kokopelli figure (maybe six feet tall) is easily visible and is on a slab of sandstone that is cracking away from the background surface. Some organization has stabilized the slab with a large steel cable which is bolted into the background. It’s good that the cable is there, to hold the piece in place so that we all can enjoy it, but it is a shame that the cable has to cut the image in half. There are also several other very interesting images nearby, including some obviously more recent additions, like a Christian fish, a cross, and a gold star.
This is the site that is described in the journals of the Escalante Expedition of 1776. Of particular interest is the figure of Kokopelli, the hump-backed flute player of Anasazi mythology. His presence indicates a tie with the more civilized cultures of the Four Corners area whose relics can be seen near Mesa Verde.
Site 11: Waving Hands Recreation Site
1:14 p.m.
The Waving Hands Recreation Site, which has a sign along Highway139 near milepost 53.5, is at GPS coordinates are: 39 50.455N; 108 44.355W; at an elevation of 6,027 feet. There is a short dirt road that leads from the highway on the west side, into a small parking area. A trail leads to two panels, one on a surface to the right, and one on the surface to the left. The panel to the right has a red anthropomorph pictograph, about 24 inches tall, just above eye level. The panel to the left has the very obvious waving hands pictograph, as well as a white bird, a pair of horses with riders, a couple of thin red figures, and what looks like a stalk of some sort of grain.
1:23 p.m.
We have come to the end of the rock art described in Canyon Pintado National Historic Area. We headed back north on Highway139 to the East Four Mile Recreation Site, where we used the picnic tables for a brief picnic lunch.
2:01 p.m.
It was nice in sunshine, even with a slight breeze, but it was cold in the shade of the covered picnic table. The temp was 50 degrees. After our meal we headed back north to Rangely
Dragonfly Road
There are several rock art sites south of Rangely along the Dragonfly Road (shown as the Dragon/Rangely Road on some maps). From Highway 64, the main drag through Rangely, locate South White Avenue. The local hospital is along this road, so watch for the hospital signs as well. From that intersection, head south along a paved road until it turns into a wide, well maintained dirt and gravel road that looks to have been recently oiled.
Site 12: Shield Site
2:35 p.m.
At milepost 5.6 there is a dirt road on the east side of Dragonfly Road. There is no sign. Turn onto that road and drive 0.3 miles. Where the road forks, make a sharp turn to the right (southwest) at GPS coordinates: 40 00.568N; 108 48.988W; at an elevation of 6,062 feet. The road will split almost right away. There is a short segment of road leading to a walk-through gate. Park your vehicle here. (This is different than the printed directions that can be found on the Internet. Obviously, the next segment of road has been closed.) Walk through the gate and along the old road for 0.2 miles. This is an easy, pleasant walk. You will soon see a prominent sandstone cliff in front of you. Walking up to the cliff you will see one complete shield and a portion of another. Someone has selfishly tried to chisel the complete shield out of the sandstone, but fortunately they were not successful and did not damage the piece.
Site 13: Fremont Ridge Site
3:12 p.m.
At milepost 9.7, along the Dragonfly Road, turn east onto the dirt road at the top of a slight hill. Drive 1.3 miles to the point where the road forks. Take the left route 0.6 miles to the crest of a ridge, where the road forks again, and there is a sign indicating the site. The left route comes to a dead end a short ways down slope. The GPS coordinates for the trail head are: 39 57.660N; 108 50.392W; at an elevation of 6,178 feet. Find a parking spot somewhere off of the road.
Follow the arrow on the sign to find a foot path heading north along the east face of the ridge. The trail contours along for about 250 yards through pinyon and juniper to the eye-level panel. The GPS coordinates for the panel are: 39 57.740N; 108 50.278W; at an elevation of 6,212 feet. It is a Fremont petroglyph panel marked by soaring carrot-shaped figures and a conglomerate of lines and smaller images, including anthropomorphic figures and small animals.
The geology, stone coloration, and erosional features in this area are also quite striking.
Site 14: Crooks Brand Site
3:48 P.M.
At milepost 10.1, turnoff on a dirt road to the west. There are signs pointing the way. Drive 0.15 miles and turn right onto another dirt road just before the well site. From there drive toward the low cliff face ahead of you, about 0.15 miles. You’ll find a wonderful park-like area surrounded by pinyons and junipers, with the prominent rock outcrop rising above. It’s a very pretty area. The GPS coordinates are: 39 58.126N; 108 52.417W; at an elevation of 6,136 feet.
Here you’ll find several incised horses, with the brand of General Crook. There is also a Ute depiction of a white man, complete with a top hat, great coat, and drawn sword, and a really nice rendition of an arrow.
Site 15: Carrot Man Site
This is the Moon Canyon Site listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
4:03 p.m.
At milepost 11.6, along the Dragonfly Road, take the dirt road that heads off to the west. There is a sign indicating the Cottonwood Creek Carrot Man Site. Drive 0.3 miles to a pull-out on the left side of the road, at the top of a small rise, at GPS coordinates: 39 56.842N; 108 53.413W; at an elevation of 6,085 feet. There is a typical brown BLM trail sign, but any markings have faded away. Park here. Just to the left (south) of the road is a small gully.
We walked down the gully and headed south, following the course of the dry stream bed. In a short distance we encountered a metal BLM historical marker near several small overhangs embellished with crude modern graffiti. Continue on past the sign, following the narrow trail through the trees to where the gully opens into a larger canyon.
To your right you will see a large overhang. Step in that direction and you will come to another historic marker. Looking straight ahead you will see several amazing pictograph and petroglyph images on the surface underneath the overhand. The “carrot” men here are very colorful. There are also several blue pieces, but we are not sure if these are authentic. We have never seen this vivid blue color on any other rock art, and, because of the blue “devil-like” image nearby, we suspect that these pieces may be frauds. But, again, we may be wrong.
This was our last stop along the Dragonfly Road. From there drove back to Rangely along the same route we took in.
East of Rangely
Drive east on out of the town of Rangely, Colorado.
Site 16: Two Horses Site
4:57 p.m.
About 8 miles east of Rangely, along the right-hand side of Highway 64 there is a prominent cliff face with the words “Jesus is Coming” painted in large letters. Just to the right of those letters, on the same rock, are supposed to be two Ute horses. We were running out of time, so we did not get out and climb up to the high ledge. We could not see the horse images from the small turn out along the side of the road.
Site 17: Reservoir Site
At milepost 26.9, on the left side of Highway 64, there is a dirt road that leads to a series of cliffs along a shallow canyon, just above a marshy area at the head of the reservoir. Turn through the gate along a two rut road and take the first left fork and drive back to the south along the reservoir for 0.4 miles. You will see a typical brown BLM marker to the right side at GPS coordinates 40 08.836N; 108 42.331W; at an elevation of 5,435 feet. You are now above the draw that has a small rock art panel with anthropomorphic figures, two spirals, and several unusual images. The panels are on the south face of the draw, about 200 yards west of the highway, at GPS coordinates: 40 08.807N; 108 42.354W; at an elevation of 5,355 feet.
We made our way down the soft surface into the bottom of a gully, then made our way toward the marshy area at the head of the reservoir.
Site 18: Ute Horse Site
5:24 p.m.
A short distance east of the Reservoir Site, Highway 64 has a junction with the Deserado Mine Road (County Road 65). Take that road north across the White River. From there the paved and gravel road passes near a large sandstone outcrop just off of the right (or east) side of the road, at milepost 2.9. There is no sign along the road, and no designated parking area. We spotted a small brown BLM trail marker just off of the road, back in the trees, in a shallow depression. We parked along the road and walked in. The entry point is just south of the overhead conveyor belt from the mine. You can’t miss it, as it crossed the road.
There is a short walk through the tall pinyon and juniper trees to the site. We were disappointed by this site, since we were not able to locate the Ute horses and tipis that are supposed to be carved into these surfaces. We did find the awl sharpening grooves that were described in the literature, and we did find one carving in a rough surface of what looked to be a representation of a tipi, but even after walking back and forth along the entire face of the outcrop we could not find the images we expected. So either we were blind or they’ve been obliterated.
Site 19: Keely's Homestead Site
At milepost 4.7, along the Deserado Mine Road (County Road 65), there is supposed to be a low line of cliffs to the right. This is the location of an old homestead site. There are supposed to be a few timbers and part of the foundation. There is also supposed to be a cistern located on top of the low ridge about 100 yards north of the homestead, and a lone fenced grave directly across the road. But since it was getting late and there was some sort of construction work going on to the west of this site, we decided to save it for a later visit. From the road we could not pick out any structures.
From there we continued north to the road’s intersection with Highway 40, where we turned west and drove back to Vernal, Utah. |
