Big Cottonwood Canyon
Personal Notes:
Wasatch Crest Ridge Trail
This page presents our personal notes on our hike along the Wasatch Crest Ridge Trail in Big Cottonwood Canyon in the Wasatch Mountains in Utah.
| Sunday, June 30, 2002 | |
Sunday, June 30, 2002
Great Western Trail
(From Guardsman Pass to Murdock Peak Junction and Return)
This hike was 15.08 miles round trip and took us 7.5 hours. Our initial elevation was approximately 9,100 feet above sea level, and our highest point was about 9,840 feet above sea level. At the junction with the Murdock Peak Trail, at the head of Mill Creek Canyon, the elevation was approximately 9,080 feet. Mileage and elevations are based on the Hiking the Wasatch map, copyright 1994.
Trailhead
We drove up Big Cottonwood Canyon to a point where Forest Service Road 152 makes a very sharp left turn off of the main canyon road. This is just below the ski area known as Brighton. Both roads are paved and striped, although 152 is much narrower and has several sharp switchbacks. Watch for fast moving traffic on these turns. We witnessed several vehicles squealing tires around the turns because they were going too fast. The road eventually reaches a summit at Guardsman Pass where there is a turn out and a good place to turn around.
At the second sharp switchback there is a dirt Forest Service road that is blocked off. This is the trailhead. Park along the shoulders of the road. Be considerate of others. You will be parking on a steep slope and your vehicle may roll back some when you try to leave at the end of your hike. So leave some room between vehicles. We also placed a large rock under the rear tire just as a precaution.
On the Trail
The trail begins down the dirt road right at the bend in the paved road. It is not marked as the Great Western Trail at this point. Mountain bikes are allowed on the trail on even numbered days. Our hike took place on Sunday, June 30, 2002. So there were a great number of bikes on the trail. Perhaps over 100.
It seems that most of these cyclists must have set up a shuttle, leaving one vehicle either in Mill Creek Canyon or at one of the other trail heads. We saw very few cyclists traveling north to south. We only saw one other hiker on our trail. I did spot a pair of hikers near Lake Desolation, apparently doing the short loop around the lake, and probably having come up the trail from farther down in Big Cottonwood Canyon or Mill Creek Canyon.
Scott's Pass
The first .71 miles of the trail follows along a dirt road that climbs gradually to Scott's Pass. From there the trail (road) turns toward the north and climbs a steeper slope toward Scott Hill where there are radio towers and transmitters. Along this climb you will see some evidence of prior mining operations in the area. This 1.83 mile stretch, once you reach the level of the transmitters, is fairly flat. The trail is pretty solid with few rocks except in a few places where an outcrop surfaces. The bikes have pulverized much of the trail and it can be quite powdery in places. But it is mostly good walking.
A good portion of the trail along its length follows the ridge line and gradually descends toward Lake Desolation. The next 2.37 mile stretch passes through some stands of pine and aspen and along exposed slopes covered in wild flowers. Very colorful. There are also great views of the Big Cottonwood Canyon, the peaks above it, and the ski areas and lifts that are such an attraction in the winter months. There are also spectacular views of the Park City area and beyond on the eastern facing slopes, as well as close-up views of the tops of the ski slopes on that side of the range.
Saddle Above Lake Desolation
At the end of this stretch you will contour along the side of a peak and come to a steep, rock descent to a saddle just above Lake Desolation. This is probably the rockiest and most difficult part of the trail, but it is short and if you watch your step, not too difficult.
Below, to the west, is the vivid blue waters of Lake Desolation, a glacial tarn. Desolation Peak is to the east. At the end of this .39 mile stretch you can either go on and climb toward Murdock Peak, or turn to the west and hike down into the cirque to visit the lake.
If you choose to go on you will begin a gradual climb over the next .8 mile stretch to another saddle. Then the next 1.44 mile section generally contours along the western slope of the ridges, weaving in and out of pine and open meadows until you begin a gradual, and then more pronounced, descent to meet the junction with the Mill Creek and Murdock Peak Trails.
Twisted Ankle
It was along in here that I stepped on a small rock and twisted my left ankle, which in turn twisted my left knee. At the time I didn't think much of it, shaking it off and continuing on. But as we continued on the ankle and knee both stiffened and swelled and the hike back was not as pleasant as the hike in.
Return Trip
Of course, we then had to turn around and begin the climb back out along the same trail. There are several saddles between the main peaks or high spots where you can throw down a space blanket and kick off your boots and eat some lunch while enjoying the view toward the east. On this day there was not a cloud in the sky. The temperatures down below were close to 100. But there was a slight breeze on top and we were fairly comfortable sitting in the open sun. From our vantage point we could see the plume of smoke rising from the forest fire along the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway, off to the east, in the Uinta Mountains on the Utah/Wyoming border.
The hike back was somewhat more difficult because it was mostly, although gradually, up hill until we reached the summit above, and to the north, of Lake Desolation. The farthest we'd ever hiked before, in one day, was 13 miles. So this was to be our longest hike.
When we got to the rocky area that climbed up toward Desolation Peak there was a traffic jamb of cyclists trying to descend down the rough slope. Most walked the short distance, but others tried to ride down. We didn't see one of them make it without falling. The sharp edges had to be rough on both bike and rider. I think walking it down was the better part of valor.
Beyond that point we gradually moved along the trail without much concern. I had a more difficult time than Anne. My left Achilles tendon tightened up and my left knee began to stiffen. I was also getting a hot spot under my right toe, near the ball. But we plodded on and once we got to the radio transmitters it was all down hill.
I should also mention that we had just purchased new boots. They were the same brand and model as our previous boots, and we had not had the opportunity to break them in. They were great and neither of us got any blisters from them. We've been using Vasque for some time, and are very pleased with them ... obviously.


