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Around 10:30 a.m. we drove south from Blanding on Highway
163, about 12 miles, to its junction with Highway 262. The
road is well marked to the Hovenweep National Monument. It
is paved all of the way to the Square Towers Visitor Center
portion of the Monument. We arrived at about 11:30 a.m., and
there were nice covered picnic tables, so we had our lunch
before going into the Visitor Center. They have modern rest
rooms and drinking water.
This is a fee area, so we used our Golden Eagle. The fee
would have been $6.00 per person. The GPS coordinates for
the parking lot are: N 37 23 186; W 109 04 546; elevation:
5,251 feet.
We got some trail information from the Ranger and then did
the two mile loop trail which takes you around the majority
of the ancient dwellings along Little Ruin Canyon. There are
round and square towers, kivas, dwellings, and all sorts of
other ruins in the area. There is a steep descent and climb
at first, but then the rest of the walk is fairly flat, though
exposed. In the autumn the weather was comfortable, but in
the summer months it could be quite warm. The only problem
that we experienced was the low angle of the sun making it
difficult to view anything when we were looking south, which,
it seemed, was a great deal of the time.
We spotted a pigmy prairie rattler along the west side of
the Hovenweep Castle. It was all stretched out and buzzing,
even when we were about 15 feet away. It never coiled, but
it was quite annoyed that we were around.
A bit farther on, between Tower Point and the cutoff trail
between Hovenweep Castle and the main trail, we spotted another
pigmy prairie rattler. This one was a bit smaller, and was
all coiled in the traditional defensive stance, with its little
tail sticking up and ready to buzz. But it never really rattled,
except once.
We reported both to the Ranger when we passed the Visitor
Center on the way out.
After we left the Little Ruin Canyon area we drove north
on the dirt road to the Horseshoe and Hackberry and Holly
sites. The side road is not obviously marked, but there is
a thin brown plastic government sign with the number 4721
printed on it. This side road is about four miles from the
entrance to the Square Tower area. The road is very rutted
and I would recommend that only high clearance vehicles take
this route. There was quite a bit of bouncing around. The
trailhead to Horseshoe and Hackberry is clearly marked. The
GPS coordinates are: N 37 24 551; W 109 02 010. The trail
is about one mile round trip. We were there about 3:30 p.m.
There appears to be some way to drive into the area, since
there was a turn around in two spots, and a pit toilet along
the trail. But we could not find the way in via vehicle.
We continued on down the rutted road to the Holly Unit. There
are some real tough spots to navigate, especially on the way
out. We arrived there about 4:06 p.m. The trail to the ruins
is about 100 yards from the parking area. Again there is a
pit toilet at the trailhead.
There is also a four mile trail from these ruins to the Square
Towers Ruins area and the Visitor Center. The GPS coordinates
are: N 37 23 992; W 109 02 413; elevation: 5382.
From there we retraced our route back to the main dirt road
and drove north to the Cutthroat Castle site. This turnoff
is again not marked. It is about 4.5 miles from the Horseshoe
and Hackberry turnoff. It is marked by a BLM sign for the
Painted Hand ruins. Again, this is a nasty road, with lots
of ruts and rock outcrops. We arrived at the trailhead at
5:25 p.m.
You can either drive down to a parking area closer to the
Cutthroat Castle, or park higher up at a trailhead and walk
1.6 mile round trip, down to the ruins. This is not a difficult
hike, although it is uphill on the return trip. It passes
through a pinyon-juniper forest and then follows a wash along
to the ruins. The wash can be a bit confusing, so follow the
cairns when they are available.
The GPS coordinates are: N 37 26 775; W 108 58 405; elevation:
6,013 feet. On the way out we almost squished a Jerusalem
Cricket crossing the road.
On the way out we pulled into the parking area for the Painted
Hand Pueblo, and even though the site is only .25 miles down
a path, we opted to skip it for this day, knowing that the
sun was going down and we still had a long drive back to Blanding.
We left the area at 5:37 p.m.
The whole BLM area in this part of Colorado is called the
Canyons of the Ancients National Monument. But we don't know
anything more about that, other than the sign looks new.
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