Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area
Personal Notes
Red Canyon Camp
This page contains our personal notes on our camp and hikes in the Red Canyon area of Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area in Wyoming and Utah.
Thursday, July 3, 2003
Vernal to Red Canyon
From Vernal we took Highway 191 north to its junction with Highway 44, then drove west a short distance to meet with the paved side road that lead to our campground. We had a little difficulty pulling the trailer up the steep grade north of Vernal. There is a nine mile stretch with 10 switchbacks and an average slope of 8%. Needless to say, we were in 2nd gear for much of the way and were thankful for the many passing lanes that have been constructed along the way. One of the things we hate is to hold back traffic because our Trooper is under powered.
There are some great views from along that stretch of road, and an interesting phosphate mining operation. There are a couple of canyons that would be magnificent to hike in, but I suspect they are owned by the mining company.
Red Canyon Campground
We arrived at the Red Canyon Campground, near the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area Visitor Center, at about 1:30 p.m. We had reserved Site 3 via the ReserveUSA online service, and when we arrived we were the only ones in the campground. The site was mostly exposed to the Sun, although there were some tall Ponderosa Pine and a few Lodgepole Pine around the site. But the loosely asphalted pad was flat and once we backed it in it was very level, not requiring any extra blocking of the wheels.
The road through the campground is asphalt or oiled gravel. There are only eight sites, most of which can be reserved. There is one set of vault toilet restrooms, but they are small and unusually difficult to get into. I had trouble getting through the door. I imagine that really heavyset people would find it very difficult, if not impossible. But the rooms were clean and served their purpose. There were also a good number of water spigots scattered throughout the campground, one of which was between our site and Site 1. Each site also has a picnic table and a nice fire pit. Although collecting wood in the forest is acceptable, there was no wood within sight inside the campground. Years of scroungers have pretty much kept the ground clean. We brought our own wood from home.
Set up went well. I set up the solar panel to keep the battery charged, but, even with the new converter, there seemed to be a problem. As soon as I'd hook up the connectors the power in the trailer would go out. So I clipped the connectors off of the wires, stripped the plastic coating, and attached the bare wires to two metal clamps that had come with the converter. Once these were attached I hooked them to the larger poles on the battery and everything seemed to work just fine. Over the course of the four days we used the lights, the small electric fan, and the water pump, and everything seemed to be fully operational and charged, even though the "Full" light on the converter never went on.
We were able to set up the canopy on the trailer to give us some much needed shade. The sky was clear blue and the Sun was hot. There was an occasional breeze, and that helped. There was a marked difference between standing in the sun and sitting in the shade.
There were quite a few insects, including some flies, and lots of gnat-like critters. Anne sprayed us with a bug spray that seemed to work well.
We set up our stand-alone shade canopy and put up its bug netting, though we didn't get to use it much. Each day we would head out hiking or sightseeing and by the time we came back in the afternoon the sun was at such a low angle that there really wasn't much shade there. I think I used the canopy one morning and on one afternoon, but you never know. In other situations it has worked just fine.
We also set up our stand alone shower tent and filled up the six gallon dark-blue plastic water container and set it out in the sun. By the time we took our showers, after our hikes on Friday and Saturday, the water was just right. On Saturday it was almost hot. But it feels great after a long, sweaty, gritty hike, and really makes the difference in one's ability to relax and sleep.
While sitting in camp on that first evening we saw a Turkey Vulture fly over, very close overhead. We could clearly see his pinkish-red head as it scanned below for a tasty morsel. Without that naked head they would probably be as appealing as a Golden Eagle. Their wing span may actually be longer, at about six feet. We do think that we also saw several Golden Eagles, but they were far enough off that it was hard to tell, even with binoculars.
We started our fire around 7:00 p.m. to prepare our evening meal, ate in the trailer because of the bugs, then walked back to the overlooks near the Visitor Center to watch the Sunset over the canyon, then walked back to camp and sat around the a small fire until it started getting dark, around 9:00 p.m. A few vehicles pulled into the campground, with people looking for a campsite. But with most of the sites reserved for the next night, and with many of the sites being on the small side, everyone drove on through. When we went to bed we were the only campers in the campground. While we sat by the fire the campground host, who has a trailer in the Greens Lake Campground down the road, stopped and said that our campground seldom filled up, and that it was her favorite.
On our last trip to the rest room we noticed that the stars were very bright and quite amazing. They almost shocked me with their intensity. We haven't been outside at night much lately, especially when the sky was clear of clouds and urban smog. Even when we do see the sky from the city it is never as bright as this night was. It was a real treat. We could even see the Milky Way.
Red Canyon Visitor Center
After we set up camp we walked the quarter of a mile to the Visitor Center and around the shady loop trail along the edge. We were able to look down into Red Canyon and see the water about a thousand feet below. The Visitor Center and the campground are at about 7,400 feet above see level. The water in the reservoir behind the dam is almost 500 feet deep in some areas, and the width varies as the canyon snakes along, running mostly east to west in that area, before it turns north and runs along a fault line toward Wyoming.
We toured the Visitor Center and spoke with the volunteer behind the counter and then walked back to our campsite. The restrooms and drinking fountains in the Visitor Center were not working. There are vault toilets near the parking area. There is also a separate, larger, parking area for RVs and trailers.
Red Canyon Lodge
After the Visitor's Center, we drove the short distance (maybe two miles) to the Red Canyon Lodge. They have a small convenience store there where we picked up some dish soap. The store also has bags of block and crushed ice.
The lodge also has rooms, a small restaurant, boat rentals for Greens Lake, a fish pond where you can feed the fish, and horse and mountain bike rentals. The cabins are a new log cabin style set back into the tall pines.
Friday, July 4, 2003
Red Canyon Campground
I hexed us. As we were falling to sleep in the quiet of our lonely campground, I made an offhand comment to Anne that it would probably be our luck that some loud family would pull in late and ruin the peace. And sure enough, sometime after 10:00 p.m. (which happens to be when quiet time begins) a van pulled in and began checking out the various sites. Because it was dark they had to shine their headlights on the site post to see if it was reserved. That meant a lot of maneuvering and gravel crunching as they turned the wheels. Of course their headlights shined all over the campground as they moved through it. And whenever they got in or out of their vehicle they had to open and close the doors, slamming them shut each time. Finally they settled on Site 5.
But they still had to set up, and it was as if they thought they were the only ones in the campground. Clanking tent poles, and their kids jabbering away and crying when they didn't get what they wanted, and the parents talking out loud as if it were broad daylight and they were in their own back yard. But finally they got everything set up and the kids quieted down and peace came back to the forest.
Then another car pulled in. It had to be after 11:00 p.m. by then, but I was too tired to get up to look. After driving through the campground they settled on Site 1, right next to us. They also had a van and it was full of four children. One of which, as it turned out, was probably the unhappiest child on the planet. Almost right away he began to whine and cry and eventually his crying turned into a horrible wale that pierced any silence that was left. He went on and on and it seemed that the parents did nothing to discourage him.
They were too busy setting up their tents, pumping up their inflatable air mattresses with a foot powered air pump, and getting all of the sleeping bags and other equipment settled for the night. Of course their flashlights and lanterns shined across our canvas walls several times as we drifted in and out of sleep. And, just like the folks in Site 5, they seemed to delight in opening and closing their van door, slamming it shut each time. Why they didn't leave it open until they were finished setting up, I'll never know.
Then, at some point, probably after Midnight, their dog decided to start barking. As the father called the dog, the whiner woke up and started his wailing again. There went our peace for the rest of the night, and the rest of the weekend.
As soon as they got the kid calmed down, one of the kids in the tent in Site 5 started crying. It was like a relay. But at least the parents got him or her calmed before the kid went on too long.
As I was lying in bed at about 5:30 a.m. (I usually wake around 5:00 a.m. naturally), half awake and half asleep, I started hearing what sounded like a deep bass sound, like you hear from those idiots who have the huge speakers mounted in their cars. You can hear them blocks away, just a boom boom boom sound. After listening for a few minutes I guessed that either another vehicle had come into the campground after we finally fell asleep, or there was someone parked over in the Visitor Center parking lot. But then I heard what sounded like bongo drums, the kind you play with your palms. It was a higher, sharper, more rhythmical sound. But I could still hear the underlying bass. These sounds went on for about 30 minutes, until the Sun came up over the horizon. Then they stopped. My guess now is that there were a few people out on one of the observation points near the Visitor Center welcoming the Sun by playing their percussion instruments. Damn Pagans, they're just as bad as the Christians who came in during the night. No regard for anyone but themselves. No concern for how their actions might impact others.
While Anne slept I wrote up my notes, only disturbed by the unmistakable whistle of humming birds passing by outside in the quiet of the morning.
We returned to camp at around 12:30 p.m. from our Rim Trail hike. We ate lunch, took a 20 minute nap, then showered. This was only the second time that we used the shower. It works great. As I mentioned above, we have a dark-blue six gallon plastic container that we leave out in the Sun. It warms the water by solar power. Then, when we're ready to shower, we move the container into the shower tent and drop the pump end into the open mouth. There is a battery box that holds four D batteries. It has an on-off switch. Once turned on the quiet pump sucks water from the container and pumps it through a long hose with a shower head on the end. It's not a strong flow, but just enough to wet you down so that you can wash and rinse your hair and body. The head of the shower can be depressed to turn it off while you are soaping up. That way you don't have to keep turning the pump on and off while showering. If we're careful (if water is in short supply) we can get four showers out of the six gallons.
The weather today was almost exactly like the day before. Warm to hot, with a slight breeze on and off throughout the day, then a strong wind in the evening, around 5:30 p.m.
After our driving tour of the Sheep Creek Loop Scenic Backway we had hoped that the noisy neighbors in Site 1 would have packed up and headed off to somewhere else. We suspected that this might be the case because they were all speaking what sounded like German. We thought perhaps they were foreigners who were only stopping for the night, perhaps on their way to Yellowstone or Dinosaur or some other location. But when we got back their tents were still there. We did have a bit of a reprieve though, as they didn't return until we got back from our drive. And right away the youngest, about two we're guessing, began his whining and crying and carrying on. Every time his mother walked off to the rest room or to dump trash he trailed after her, wailing as if she were leaving for good. The family seems to be the mother and father, in their 40s, a 12 or 14 year old daughter, and the three little ones, all about the same age, it seems.
Another habit these folks have is walking through everyone else's campsite to get to the rest room, instead of taking the road, which is only a slightly longer route. They walk right by our trailer, through the shrubs and underbrush, then right next to the picnic table in Site 4 (now occupied, although the occupants are off somewhere), then across the entrance to Site 5 (the one with the other van), and then on to the rest room. They repeat the trek on the way back, without so much as an excuse me.
We had pork chops grilled over the open fire, with corn on the cob and sour dough bread. We had cheeseburgers the night before, with potato salad and corn on the cob.
Canyon Rim Trail
After breakfast we gathered our hiking equipment and headed down the Rim Trail, which passes through the campground. We left camp at 8:20 a.m. According to our GPS unit, it was 9.34 miles round trip. One printed source said that it is 10 miles round trip from the Visitor Center to the Greendale Vista Point. But the signs along the trail indicated that it was only 3.5 miles one way. Because our GPS unit has been right on in other situations, we're going to go with that.
The morning was warm, but not too bad. We hiked along the Rim Trail from the campground to the Greendale Vista Point above the Swett Historic Ranch. The trail follows the rim for some distance, passes several of the other local campgrounds and overlooks, and then cuts across the forest to the view point.
The trail is rocky in spots, making it a little difficult to walk. In the forested areas, where it moves away from the rim, it is packed earth and allows much faster walking. There are also a few marshy, muddy areas where springs surface. The trail crosses a couple of pleasant streams and one canal. The Greendale Vista Point has vault toilet rest rooms and a shaded picnic table, but no drinking water.
The trail is relatively flat, with some slight slopes. We would rate it as mostly easy to slightly moderate. There is a good deal of exposure to the Sun, since the Ponderosa and Lodgepole Pines tend to spread out across the landscape and don't have the dense foliage of some other pines. We saw a lot of wild rose and a variety of other small plants that were flowering in a rainbow of colors.
On our return trip we made the loop around near the Red Canyon Lodge and Greens Lake. In that area Anne spotted the ears of a mule deer lying down behind a log. She let us snap several photos and we left her lying there, undisturbed.
We had the trail mostly to ourselves. We only encountered others near the campgrounds, the lodge, and the Greendale Vista Point. There were a few insects along the trail, mostly when we stopped to drink or look at something, but they weren't too bad.
At one point on the hike we came to a fence line, made up of long logs laid horizontally across the V formed by shorter logs fastened together in an X. The trail passed through this fence at a very interesting gate. It was about ten feet tall, made of heavy lumber. All you had to do was push it to get it to open, and a hidden counter weight pulled it back closed. We'd never seen one quite like that.
Sheep Creek Loop Scenic Backway
The Sheep Creek Loop Scenic Backway is a featured site. See the Personal Notes for more details.
Historic Ute Fire Tower
Off of the Sheep Creek Loop Scenic Backway is a Forest Service road up to the Historic Ute Fire Tower. It is the only fire tower in Utah still in operation. It is a wooden structure and is quite interesting. But it was closed for the day, so we could only walk up a short distance. However, it was a nice drive through the forest, and there were interesting views. The road is narrow, so if you meet oncoming traffic at certain places, it could be difficult to pass. Fortunately, we only met one set of vehicles, on our way out, and they seemed to be a convoy of about four vehicles. We encountered them at a wide spot where we could pull to the side.
Saturday, July 5, 2003
Red Canyon Campground
After returning from our Little Hole National Recreation Trail hike and tour of the dam area we took a shower. This time the water was almost hot. And because it was later in the day, the shower tent was no longer in the shade. It was exposed to the full effects of the afternoon Sun. So our shower, although nice, was not as pleasant as the day before.
The people who had reserved Site 2 had arrived while we were gone. That spot is across the road from us and the folks in Site 1. They have three large German Shepherd-type dogs, but they have long hair. I'd never seen anything like them.
Of course, when the family in Site 1 returned from their day's travels their dog spotted the three across the road. That lead to some vicious barking. The owners of both eventually got them settled. That's when we learned, from overhearing the loud conversation between the two camping groups, that he German speaking folk were actually from Park City, Utah. The other couple, in their early 50s, I'm guessing, are from somewhere in Wyoming.
Several other spots in the campground were also filled while we were gone.
Of course, the cry baby boy next to us went on and off several times through the evening. You could tell when he was getting ready to let go. He sort of wound up to his wail like an air-raid siren does, until it hits its peak.
We grilled chicken over the fire, then used up the last of our wood and sat out under the stars with the fire until after 11:00 p.m.
Little Hole National Recreation Trail
We got up, had a quick breakfast, then packed up our hiking equipment and headed off toward the dam and Dutch John, a little to the east and north of the campground. Maybe about 10 miles. We drove over the dam and through the small town and took a paved road to the Little Hole parking area, where the trails head and there are boat ramps into the Green River, all seven miles below the dam. The GPS Coordinates are N 40 54 696; W 109 18 902.
Last year, in July, I believe, there was a major forest fire in the Dutch John area. We could see plenty of evidence of its devastation. Acres and acres surrounding the town and across the previously forested hills in all directions. Right on down into the Little Hole area along the river. The smell wasn't too bad, but there was plenty of dark ash mixed with the sand in some washes. It's also pretty obvious that there is a lot of extra erosion this year. It is probably a good thing that we're not having a wet year.
Around the large parking area are both vault and flush toilets, drinking fountains, picnic tables, and some shade provided by trees in one area.
We hiked the Little Hole National Recreation Trail (the first of that designation that we've hiked). From Little Hole to the base of the dam is 7 miles. That was our ultimate goal, to hike there and back, but I had developed a bit of a blister the Sunday prior to this trip which got a little aggravated on Friday's hike, even though I'd applied mole skin, and so the distance depended on how my foot held up. As it turned out, we only made it five miles out, so our round trip was 10 miles. We base that on the mile posts that are placed along the trail at one mile intervals, not so much for the hikers, but for those rafting and boating on the river. Our GPS stopped receiving a satellite signal at 4.7 miles, probably because of the trees and steep cliffs along the sides of the river. By the end of the hike the blister on my foot had grown about a quarter of an inch larger, again, in spite of the mole skin. I don't think I could have made the additional four miles without coming up lame.
The trail is mostly easy to slightly moderate, with just a few short climbs, but nothing very stressful. Some parts of the trail are nicely packed while others are rocky or sandy. There are several places where the trail passes over erosion control dikes, which are clusters of small crushed rocks held in place by chain link fencing. It's fairly easy walking, but you have to watch your step so that a boot lug doesn't get caught in the fencing or on a protruding rock edge.
There are also areas where they have built boardwalks across narrow marshy areas along cliff faces. As I said above, the trail is marked with signs at one mile intervals, but they seem to be slightly off according to our GPS. This may be so that they can position them relatively close to the actual mileage while placing them in area where the fishermen and rafters can see where they are on the river. There is also a composting toilet at about the 1.5 mile mark from Little Hole.
Along one of the boardwalks Anne spotted what we think was some sort of garter snake, or a whiptail, or something along those lines. It moved away too fast to get a photo.
All along the trail we were able to spot trout in the water along the banks. They were everywhere, just lazing along. Mostly solo, but there were a few pairs and a few clusters of three or more.
There were quite a few fly fishermen along the banks and out in the shallow waters. Mostly from Little Hole to the 2 mile marker. After that we only saw two 30ish fellows at about the 4 mile point. However, the closer we got to the dam, the more fishermen we saw in boats and rafts, among recreational rafters, who were out just to enjoy the rapids and the splashing waters. They all seemed to get along just fine.
At one point we came across a young Oriental couple who had apparently hired a boat for a fly fishing trip. Apparently they needed to relieve themselves, so the boatman had put them on shore. They didn't see us coming until they were about ready to pull down their pants. I think we embarrassed them, so we moved on quickly. But that brings up a point. On this hike we came across places, right on the trail, where boaters (I'm guessing) took a crap right on the trail, leaving their droppings and their used toilet paper exposed to anyone passing by. They obviously had no consideration for anyone else using the trail or the river. They could have at least gone back into the trees somewhere, off the trail.
Among the rafts and small boats we spotted one pair of kayakers. They seemed to be having a great time in the rapids. It all looked like a lot of fun. The rapids on the Green, at least along this stretch, are not very violent.
Near our turn-around point we spotted a mother duck and her twelve ducklings all swimming in a long line behind her. At first I thought it was some sort of water snake, they sat so low in the water and made such a long, thin line. We watched them cross the river and circle around. Then I had to laugh because right behind the ducks there was a large raft with three adults and a string of about seven young children. It was almost a mirror image. Nature is nature, no matter the species.
We also spotted two osprey, several vultures, a golden eagle, ravens, and a chipmunk.
The round trip hike took us 4 hours and 20 minutes. After we removed our boots and socks we walked down to one of the boat ramps and played a bit in the icy cold waters of the Green River. The water, in general, is pretty clear. And I imagine that its cold nature is because it comes through the dam, from a deep reservoir.
Dutch John and Flaming Gorge Dam
After we hiked the Little Hole National Recreation Trail we drove back to Dutch John and stopped at Trout Creek Flies, a convenience store, cafe, fishing shop, and lodge. We bought cold drinks and munchies and headed out.
We drove to Mustang Ridge, and drove down to near the campgrounds and boat ramps, just to see what was down there and to see a different view of the reservoir. Then we drove on to the north, to Antelope Flats, down a bumpy, dusty, four mile long gravel road, to view the larger part of the lake north of the Flaming Gorge. It was pretty hot out there, exposed, and desolate. I can see why everyone spends all of their time in, on, or near the water at this time of year.
It seems that all of the campgrounds around Flaming Gorge and in the Recreation Area are exposed. We were thankful for the little shade that we had.
On the way back from Antelope Flats we stopped at the Dam Overlook. From there you can see the unique Cart Creek Bridge, the reservoir side of the dam, and a good part of the reservoir.
From there we drove down toward the dam, on the River Access Road. We stopped at an overlook below the dam, then continued on down to the parking area near the river, where we would have come out if we had completed the 14 mile trip. We couldn't get to the river because there were so many vehicles near the boat ramp. From there we drove back to our campground.
Sunday, July 6, 2003
Red Canyon Campground
At some point during the night, I think maybe 4:00 a.m., actually, the dogs across from us began barking violently. I think one may have gotten off its leash or rope. The owner went screaming through the forest, yelling after his dog. What a noise. After about 10 to 15 minutes of commotion they got the dogs settled again. Of course, then, the little kid next to us went off on one of his wailing stints. About the time they got him quieted down one of the kids in Site 5 went off. It was just amazing. And all of the parents seem unfazed or unapologetic about the whole thing, as if we all wanted to really experience the joys of their lovely children.
When we got up Anne scrambled some eggs and soy sausage for breakfast, then we took our time packing up and we headed home, back along the same route that we'd come.
The traffic got heavy the closer to Heber that we got. At one point, on a long downhill stretch, a fancy sedan passed a string of us that were pulling trailers of various types. This car zoomed past in a no passing zone, in the passing lane for the oncoming traffic. As the line ahead of us came to a curve, the car suddenly pulled back in line behind a pickup towing an 18 foot trailer. Then, as they went around the corner, the car pulled out again, then passed the rig. Out of our sight, it must have pulled back in front of the truck pulling the trailer, because it looked as if the truck and trailer slammed on their breaks. But at highway speeds, trailers don't like to stop that fast. The trailer began to swing back and forth across the road. The guy was lucky that there were three lanes to play with and that there were no oncoming vehicles. Finally he went into the shoulder of the road, kicking up a cloud of dust and rocks. He was around a curve, so we thought that he'd crashed. But when we came around the bend, we could see that he had maneuvered back onto the pavement. Regaining control, he then pulled to the side of the road to assess the damage to his vehicle and trailer. There was a jeep ahead of us, and they pulled over to assist, so we didn't stop. The driver of the truck had gotten out and was cursing and kicking rocks. The driver side of his trailer had been peeled back, probably from the two metal fence posts that he'd flattened as he drove on the shoulder. The driver of the fancy car had continued on as if nothing happened.
The rest of our drive home was uneventful. I think we got home about 3:30 p.m.
