Grand Teton National Park
Personal Notes: Valley Trail Hikes
This page contains our personal notes on our hikes to several lakes on or near the Valley Trail in Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming.
Friday, July 22, 2005
Jackson Lake
We stopped at a rest area just south of Jackson Lake Dam. There are clean restrooms and a nice, short paved trail through the pines down to an overlook above the dam, with some descriptive plaques. Jackson Lake seems to have taken on quite a bit of water over the winter, but it is still far from full.
Colter Bay Village and Campground
We drove into the Colter Bay campground, but couldn’t drive through the tent camping area because they had a manned entrance station. However, we were able to drive through the RV camping area. This area is really nice, with mostly pull through type sites and full hookups. There is lots of shade from the tall pines and there are grocery stores and public pay showers and a laundry in the nearby village. We didn’t get a chance to see what the sites cost per night.
Signal Mountain Campground
We drove through the Signal Mountain Campground. It’s pretty small, the road is narrow, and the camp sites are mostly for tents. The driveways for most would be too short to fit our popup and there would be little or no room to park our Trooper. But there are lots of pines for shade, and it is right along the lake. There were a few smaller RVs there, but many of the driveways tend downwards from the dirt road and are narrow and might be difficult to back in to.
Saturday, July 23, 2005
Granite Canyon Trailhead
7:00 a.m.
The Granite Canyon Trailhead is at GPS Coordinates (NAD83): 43 36.437N; 110 47.577W; at an elevation of 6,377 feet. There are only four or five cars in the lot. It is along the Moose-Wilson Road. There is no shade and there is no restroom nor water at this trailhead. There is an informational kiosk.
7:13 a.m.
We began our hike up the the Granite Canyon Trail. This section crosses an open area of sage, and provides nice views of the mountains to the west.
Potter Horse Trail Junction
7:26 a.m.
At this point we crossed a junction with the Potter Horse Trail and one other trail. The junction is well signed, so it would be hard to mistake it for the Valley Trail.
7:46 a.m.
We reached the junction with the Valley Trail, but it is not listed on the sign. The sign does indicate that we are 3.5 miles from Phelps Lake at this point.
7:50 a.m.
Shortly after the first junction we crossed Granite Creek and encountered another junction. There were several trails listed here, including the Valley Trail and the Granite Canyon Trail. We still have 3.4 miles to go to Phelps Lake.
The trail trends north along this portion of the hike and contours along most slopes. But there are short ascents and descents. Eventually there is a point where Phelps Lake becomes visible far below to the right.
Phelps Lake
9:30 a.m.
Essentially the last mile to Phelps Lake is a fairly steep descent to the north side of the lake, where there is a campsite, access to the lake, and a junction with the Death Canyon Trail. The junction with the camp site trail is at GPS Coordinates (NAD83): 43 39.141N; 110 48.284W; at an elevation of 6,669 feet. Death Canyon is above Phelps Lake.
Right at this junction was the only place we encountered other hikers along the main trail (away from the trailhead). Of course, when you go down, if you go back the way you came, you must climb back up. So we turned around and headed back up the trail.
At this point, just after the other hikers passed by in the opposite direction, we heard what sounded like a young kitten crying, as if it were lost or frightened. But it sounded much larger than a house cat. It was coming from the dense brush beneath a tall pine. Suspecting that it was the young of some wild cat (perhaps a bobcat or a cougar) we didn't approach. One never knows where mother is hiding. Some mysteries are best left unsolved.
The trail, for the most part, is pretty good. It is rocky in places, and there is a lot of vegetation close in along the sides. Because of the previous night’s rain, and probably because of the morning dew, we got quite wet passing through the plants. Our boots and socks picked up quite a bit of water.
Also, there are a lot of downed trees along the trail. Some you can simply step over, others you must climb over, and some you have to work your way around. And on the descent to Phelps Lake there is a large downed tree that you must crawl under. And it’s in a tricky spot, with a steep slope off to the one side. So you have to be careful when coming out the other side. But we made it with no problem.
Because of the water that ran down our legs and soaked our socks and boots, our feet got pretty heavy by the time we returned to the trailhead.
Return Trip
11:30 a.m.
When we made it back at the trailhead the parking lot was overflowing and there were people waiting for our spot when we left. The air had warmed up and we were glad we had started early before the sun really started cooking things.
The hike, according to our GPS, was 10.4 miles round trip. We averaged 2.7 mph moving, and 2.4 mph overall. The elevation at the trailhead is 6,377 feet. Over the length of the hike we had 2,020 feet of total ascent. Our maximum elevation along the route was at 7,108 feet.
Sunday, July 24, 2005
Moose-Wilson Road
We drove back to camp after our Taggart Lake hike down the Moose-Wilson Road, and this time we spotted two females and one male moose in the marshy area along that route. There were quite a few tourists stopped in that area, looking. There was also an elk back in the trees at one point. The GPS Coordinates for this area are: 43 39.068N; 110 44.750W; at an elevation of 6,483 feet.
Taggart and Bradley Lakes Trailhead
7:16 a.m.
We are at the trailhead and heading out. It is still cold. The GPS Coordinates for this location are: 43 41.558N; 110 43.959W; at an elevation: 6,627 feet. There were only four or five cars in the large paved parking area. There is no water, but there is a vault toilet restroom and an informational kiosk, with trail guides that can be borrowed or purchased for 50 cents. The guide contains a very nice contour map showing the trails in detail.
After a short hike across an open sage area we came to a junction where the trail splits to the left and the right. We went to the left, along the Beaver Creek Trail. The GPS Coordinates for the junction are: 43 41.646N; 110 44.132W; at an elevation of 6,640 feet.
This trail passes below what appears to be a moraine and through stands of trees and scrub. There are many animal trails that cross this path, leading down to the marshy areas along the creek. There are supposed to be moose in this area, but we didn’t see any.
Valley Trail Junction
Eventually the trail junctions with the Valley Trail at GPS Coordinates (NAD83): 43 41.605N; 110 45.270W; at an elevation of 6,775 feet.
After that the trail climbs through a series of switchbacks and crosses the top of the moraine, providing occasional views of the rugged Teton peaks. From above you can look down upon Taggart Lake and the surrounding area. There are lots of tall pines, but there had been fires in the area over the last twenty years and so there are also many open areas, with either short scrub growth or young pines. It is a beautiful setting. From the top of the moraine the trail descends to the lake.
Taggart Lake
8:32 a.m.
At Taggart Lake the trail crosses a long wooden bridge (GPS Coordinates (NAD83): 43 41.983N; 110 45.145W; elevation: 6,909 feet). The lake is calm, with the peaks and mountains behind it. Makes for a beautiful setting.
8:41 a.m.
In Avalanche Canyon, above Taggart Lake, there is a large waterfall that we could hear all over the area around the lake. You can get a great view of it from the east side of the lake.
The junction of Valley Trail with the Taggart Lake Trail is at GPS Coordinates (NAD83): 43 42.042N; 110 45.068W; at an elevation of 6,909 feet.
A short distance further, along the east side of Taggart Lake, is a junction with the Bradley Lake Trail. It is at GPS Coordinates (NAD83): 43 42.739N; 110 45.105W; at an elevation of 7,035 feet. We took that trail and continued north toward Bradley Lake. Eventually the trail climbs more switchbacks over another moraine.
Bradley Lake
9:10 a.m.
As the trail crossed over the lateral moraine and descended down toward Bradley Lake, Anne spooked up a grouse of some sort. It’s always a thrill to see and hear those large birds take off. Along the trail we also saw a few varieties of ground squirrels and chipmunks. From the top of the moraine you can see the lake below, and the mountains and canyons to the west.
All along the trail we have seen moose, deer, and elk prints, but no big critters yet. No signs of bear in here, but they are supposed to be around. There are also lots of downed trees lying across the trail all the way along. The trail itself is mostly packed earth, but it is sometimes rocky. There are some switchbacks as the trail climbs and descends the moraines.
Garnet Canyon is above Bradley Lake.
The trail passes along the east side of the lake, where there are many spots to sit down near the water and absorb the magnificent scenery as the still waters reflect the immense peaks looming above. When we got to the lake there was only one other couple, quietly sitting and enjoying the view. We continued on along the trail to the north end, where we explored a marshy area and then crossed a wooden bridge and began our climb up yet another moraine toward the head of Burned Wagon Gulch. Once again there were several switchbacks which helped with the steep climb. This was probably the steepest climb on this hike.
Near the top of the climb we met a couple headed down, then we reached an area where the trail sloped gently downward and tended to contour along the slope through some thick vegetation, under tall pines, with the gulch to our right. The day was starting to heat up, and we could feel the warm air when we entered the more exposed areas along our hike.
Garnet Canyon and Amphitheater Lake Trails Junction
10:03 a.m.
We reached the junction with Garnet Canyon and Amphitheater Lake Trails. There were several people stopped in this area, obviously coming up the trail from the Lupine Meadows Trailhead. They continued on up toward Amphitheater Lake. This is our turnaround point for this hike. It should be 3.5 miles back to trailhead, according to the sign. Mostly downhill from here. The GPS Coordinates for the junction are: 43 43.572N; 110 45.403W; at an elevation of 7,417 feet.
Return Trip
10:21 a.m.
As we climbed back up the moraine north of Bradley Lake we came upon a mule deer standing on the trail looking at us. After she realized that we would not harm her, she walked toward us, then, within about ten feet of Anne, she stepped off to the side of the trail and into the brush, where she began eating the lush vegetation. I was able to get several really nice shots of her. Then, as we reached the top of the moraine and began down the other side, we spooked up a male grouse. He also allowed me to get a couple of nice photos as he puffed up his chest and warned us away.
Loop Campsite
10:42 a.m.
On the way back along the north end of Bradley Lake we made a short stop at the Loop Campsite. There is a short bench for sitting or preparing meals, two tent sites near the water, an anti-bear food box, and plenty of shade. It would be a nice backpacking spot. It is located at GPS Coordinates (NAD83): 43 42.962N; 110 45.186W; at an elevation of 7,034 feet.
10:53 a.m.
Continuing on along the east side of Bradley Lake, we found a nice spot to sit and relax. There is a nice outcrop of rocks along the edge of the water, with great views across the lake to the various peaks and canyons and water falls. The lake was calm and clear. We ate a bit of trail food and relaxed.
11:23 a.m.
After we finished eating we headed back down the trail. We should have about 2.1 miles to go.
Female Moose
11:59 a.m.
We entered another burned out area that is now covered in low scrub and grasses. Along this open area, just before the junction of the Bradley Lake and Taggart Lake trails, we spotted a female moose along and below the trail. We watched her for a while, and took several really nice photos. Then we continued on, informing all of the tourists along the Taggart Lake Trail to keep their eyes open for her.
The junction of the Bradley Lake Trail and the Taggart Trail is at GPS Coordinates (NAD83): 43 42.162N; 110 44.657W; at an elevation of 6,930 feet.
Just after we joined the Taggart Lake Trail we spotted a large marmot sunning itself up on a rock above us. From Bradley Lake on we began running into a lot of tourist-type people. Mostly heading up the short trail to Taggart Lake. It is a good thing that we visited that lake when we did, because at this time of day we would not have had the lake to ourselves.
12:25 p.m.
We made it back to the trailhead. Our hike, according to the GPS, was 8.96 miles round trip. We averaged 2.5 mph moving. The entire hike took us 3 hours and 33 minutes of moving time. Our total ascent was 1,503 feet. The highest elevation that we reached was 7,437 feet.
The trail was much drier today than yesterday, so our boots didn’t get wet. We finished the hike in much better shape than we did yesterday, although my knees are aching just a bit.
Monday, July 25, 2005
Teton Village KOA Campground
On this trip we were given site 76, back under the taller trees. It is a nice, relatively private and shady spot. But it is quite a walk from the restrooms and showers. It's hard to figure why a campground this large doesn't have at least two restrooms, one on each end of the park. Especially with so many tent campers on the east side of the campground. It's quite a walk for them.
When we arrived the air was warm and humid. Over the course of the weekend we had clouds, high winds, falling tree branches, cool to coldish nights, one night of steady rain, and hot, humid days. The trailer is in the shade for most of the day, but when it’s not, there is at least shade available to sit under. The GPS Coordinates for site 76 are: 43 31.177N; 110 50.308W; at an elevation of 6,184 feet.
It was pretty cold on a couple of the mornings, down to around 50 degrees F. We turned on the heater to take the chill out of the air as we got dressed. On one night we heard geese honking and coyotes howling and yipping not too far off, and the noisy RV neighbors getting ready to leave sometime while it was still dark.
Moose-Wilson Road
The Moose-Wilson Road, as the name implies, runs between the Wyoming town of Wilson, and the Grand Teton National Park Visitor Center and Moose Junction, along the two main routes through the park. There is an entry station just north of Teton Village. Even though the road is not in good condition, as noted below, it is a much shorter route between where we were staying (south of Teton Village) and the main areas of the park. So we traveled this road quite often, in both directions, while we were staying in the area.
The one thing that we noted on each journey over this course were the number of idiot drivers who think they are operating the only vehicle on the road. In addition, because of the chance of seeing some large species of wildlife, the drivers are often peering off to the side, forgetting that there may be another vehicle coming at them around the next corner. And there are a lot of tight corners. If you travel this road, be aware of oncoming traffic, and watch your speed. And stay on your own side of the road.
